Jamie Leeds, chef-owner of the two-unit Hank’s Oyster Bar in the Washington, D.C., area, is working with a local farmer to grow signature oysters for her restaurants. Leeds already gives her used oyster shells back to Bruce Woods, who is using them to recreate a reef in Nomini Creek in Westmoreland County, Va., a low-saline estuary in Chesapeake Bay. Woods is placing spats, or larval oysters, on the used shells on the creek’s western shore to raise shellfish to be used ...

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