The interest in offal, or various kinds of innards, has been on the rise. Chefs love the adventure of it, and increasingly their customers are tempted. A dinnertime dare, perhaps? In Atlanta, a new place is named Abbatoir, which is French for “slaughterhouse,” and its chef-owners, Anne Quatrano, Clifford Harrison and Joshua Hopkins, say it is devoted to “whole-animal cuisine.” That means a menu listing kidneys, liver, tripe and even cockscombs, a delicacy in France. Sweetbreads, ...
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