Jay Fagnano had been out of the fine-dining business for a decade, so when he opened the Larchmont Grill in Los Angeles last summer, he was struck by how much the world of restaurant criticism had changed. In the early ’90s, he recalls, a Los Angeles operator could expect to find his restaurant reviewed by a predictable group of publications that included major daily newspapers, alternative weeklies and city magazines. But over the years that field has shrunk as print ...

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