At 2 a.m. on a Saturday in September in Louisville, Ky., Park Place on Main executive chef Jay Denham was in a farm field wood-smoking a 220-pound hog. The product of a Maysville, Ky., farm, Denham is no stranger to all-night barbecuing, so he was prepared with provisions: a glass of real moonshine for sipping and a bag of chips for sustenance. In case he fell asleep, his cell phone alarm was set to ring every 30 minutes to remind him to refuel the fire or moisten it with a hose. ...

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