Just a few years ago, a restaurant could not be inducted into Nation’s Restaurant News’ Fine Dining Hall of Fame if its tables weren’t covered with white tablecloths. Oh, how times have changed. Many diners have lost interest in the classical trappings of high-end restaurants. And even the Michelin Guide, former guardian of all things “haute cuisine,” this year gave its top three-star rating to Brooklyn Fare in Brooklyn, N.Y., which doesn’t even have a ...

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