No one would dispute that Americans love potatoes, but attacks from health advocates on the beloved starch and its most popular preparation, the French fry, have taken their toll. The United States Potato Board says that in-home potato consumption has dropped by around 15 percent since 1990.Restaurants have not seen such declines—and few chefs foresee any major shift in the way people eat—but as new trans-fat regulations bring the fat content of French fries to people’s attention, chefs are ...

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