Recently I went to the opening of Gray Kunz’s latest venture, Grayz, and it illustrated the many ways in which fine dining is on the decline in New York. In the 1990s, Gray Kunz was executive chef of Lespinasse, one of New York City’s many fine-dining temples. Located in the St. Regis Hotel, it was known for its elegance, its formality, its creative yet super-elegant food—it was one of just a few restaurants to hold the maximum four stars from The New York Times—and, ...

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