Romaine lettuce is being restyled. The workhorse of the Caesar salad bowl is breaking out of its cliché use and being exploited by chefs for soups, side dishes, wraps and stuffings. Farmers are also growing baby romaine and red-leafed romaine to add variety to even the most mundane uses of this salad component to give it even wider appeal in the leaf-and-dressing department. At Naha in Chicago, small “gem” romaine from Wisconsin is layered with serrano ham, Garrotxa cheese, white ...

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