What is most interesting about strawberries, a favorite on the American fruit parade, is how infrequently they are used. Not that they are absent from the standard bakery tart or cheesecake, the rosters of ice cream, or pots of preserves, but many chefs these days have begun to see them as a seasonal fruit, at their best in late spring and summer, instead of as a year-round staple like bananas. And right now is when strawberries are blooming all over dessert menus. For a good ...

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