Among succulent, tender comfort foods, slowcooked short ribs of beef continue to reign. As with beef cheeks and oxtails, short ribs’ appeal lies in the richness of their texture and flavor. And these days, their stew-pot personality suits high-end menus as well as the more casual ones. Gray Kunz was one of the first chefs to elevate lowly short ribs to prominence at Lespinasse in the St. Regis hotel in New York back in 1991. They became a signature, and they are also on the menu ...

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