The era of “Weird Science” desserts, in all their gurgling, befoamed glory, may be drawing to a swift and unceremonious end. “Molecular gastronomy, especially when applied to desserts, was always more experimental and interesting than it was satisfying,” says Don Tillman, owner, general manager and sommelier of ChikaLicious, a tiny and much beloved dessert shop in New York City’s East Village. “Regular people want something that’s comfortable and familiar — and that doesn’t ...

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