Cook potatoes and onions with cheese in a skillet, and you have frico caldo, a dish from Friuli on the Italian side of the Austrian border. Thinly slice raw swordfish and top it with an orange fennel salad, and you have Sicilian carpaccio di pesce spada. Spaghetti and meatballs? Well, let’s just say Italian food has evolved since arriving in the United States. “When I came to the U.S. in 1979, what people served as Italian food from south of Rome was not really Italian ...
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