Playing off the dual trends of comfort food with a twist and affordable indulgences, chefs across the country are combining lobster with various pastas and cheeses, and menuing the increasingly popular dish as “lobster mac & cheese.” At Coolfish, in Syosset, N.Y., the $18 lobster mac & cheese is prepared with coin-shaped orechiette pasta mixed with a blend of four cheeses — truffled pecorino, aged gouda, white Cheddar and, to make for a better melted, gooier ...

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