For Edward Brown, who opened eighty one on Manhattan’s Upper West Side in February, the plan for his restaurant was complex in its simplicity. “I wanted to make a restaurant that I wanted to dine in often, that has an umbrella of great hospitality, great food, a great wine program and excellent service,” Brown says. “All of those sound ‘well, duh, it’s obvious,’ but it’s not.“I wanted it to be comfortable, so while it is a luxury-style place, it is not a place that you ...

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