“It’s a baby lesson,” Ellen Burke Van Slyke says of the new Spice Market mini-menu she introduced recently at Mistral restaurant in Coronado, Calif. Her goal is to have her guests “wake up and taste the spice” and then maybe—all in the interests of pedagogy of course—to “play with their food.” Burke Van Slyke is the food and beverage director at the Loews Coronado Bay Resort. When Loews relocated her here a year ago from her previous posting at the award-winning Ventana Room in Tucson, ...

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