On the Massachusetts island of Nantucket, Orla Murphy-Lascola, co-owner and sommelier of American Seasons restaurant, used to buy organic syrups for her Italian-style sodas. “Then we started making our own,” she says.That’s happening a lot these days. With carbonation equipment so inexpensive that it’s even springing up in people’s homes, chefs, mixologists and sommeliers are using their skills to raise their nonalcoholic programs to the same level as their food, wine, ...

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