Seeking dishes with the distinctive smokiness and rustic appeal born of flame and embers, a growing number of operators are adopting the age-old practice of wood-fired cooking.
 But just because a practice is time-tested doesn’t mean it’s easy. In chasing wood-fired flavor, operators are discovering considerable challenges, including high costs, steep requirements for ventilation and the need for new skill sets.
 “The trend of going back to 100-percent wood and more ...

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