Appealing to a variety of customers is a great thing, but if a dish intended to eliminate the “veto vote” is not as well planned or executed as the rest of the fare, it’s probably better not to offer it at all.On a recent afternoon I went to get some burgers at lunch with a coworker. The burger craving had apparently struck everyone in Manhattan at the same time, so there was a long line at our favorite joint. At the table next to us was a young couple on a lunch date waiting for a bacon ...

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