Southern Italian food in the United States is both the beneficiary and victim of generalization. So-called “red-sauce Italian” is arguably Americans’ favorite “ethnic” cuisine. But as diners seek greater authenticity, they, and the restaurateurs serving them, are discovering the variety of cuisines in southern Italy.One of Italy’s southernmost regions, sunny but windswept Puglia, is not only the heel and ankle of the great Italian boot—jutting out into the Adriatic Sea, it is not protected ...

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