NEW YORK —Restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow has a big beef with The New York Times’ restaurant critic Frank Bruni. Stung by a less-than-favorable review of his newly opened Kobe Club steakhouse here, Chodorow assailed Bruni in a full-page Times ad in which he accused the critic of attacking him personally—marking the latest public battle in the ongoing war between operators whose livelihoods hinge on good press and critics who don’t always dispense it. ...

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