Of the many advantages to being a soccer mom—weekend-killing hours in the hot sun watching games, smelly socks and shin guards—a big plus is that it gets you out of town.Happily for me, traveling means going to restaurants, in our case, in large, diverse clusters of preteens, grandparents, younger and older siblings, and, of course, parents. We are one large and boisterous focus group, most of us wearing the team’s color: traffic-cone orange. Last week, my 12-year-old’s team ...

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