Soft-shell crab season has arrived. Every spring, mature crabs shed their old shells and start growing bigger ones. That natural process temporarily transforms them from hard-shell crustaceans that are eaten by die-hard fans with the patience to crack them open and pick the meat out, to soft-shell delicacies easily consumed with a knife and fork. “Soft-shell crab is a seasonal treat,” said Scott Kinsey, chef-owner of two-unit Taqueria Tsunami in Atlanta, who is serving ...

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