Since Ed LaDou got his first pizza-making job in 1975, a single thought has dominated his thinking: “I wonder what that would taste like on pizza.”LaDou said he always believed that foods other than pepperoni and sausage would taste good baked on a skin of dough, and that curiosity led him to mingle mozzarella with smoked salmon, beef marrow, tripe and crawfish tails, making him an early entrant in the gourmet-pizza movement of the 1980s. As LaDou celebrates 20 years as chef-owner ...

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