As is so often the case in those parts of Italy that stir the imagination, Fabio Trabocchi started learning about food as a child. That upbringing led him to cook in kitchens across Europe and, now, in New York. His latest venture is Fiamma, a stately fine-dining restaurant on the western edge of Soho — a downtown New York City neighborhood that retains vestiges of old Little Italy even after its fate as a rich and stylish hot spot has been sealed. Trabocchi landed there, in ...

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