Bruce Cost went from counseling New York City heroin addicts to running a Chinese fine-dining restaurant in San Francisco to conceptualizing Pan-Asian casual dining in the Midwest.Cost had always been fascinated by China, but as a student at Wesleyan University in the 1960s, he couldn’t study much about contemporary China, which at the time was largely closed to the outside world. The year he graduated, 1966, China’s Cultural Revolution began, completely shutting it off from the rest of the ...

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