Much has been written about the plight of French wines in the United States and United Kingdom—how so many of today’s wine drinkers favor the taste of New World wines and no longer relate to the dryer, leaner, less-fruity style of wine that is so common in France.What does surprise and disappoint us, however, is that the wine trade has not turned to Beaujolais as a middle ground. Of all the red wines of France, Beaujolais is perhaps the most suited to modern diners’ thirst for fruity, ...

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