As the richer, saucy dishes of cooler months give way to grilled fish and composed salads, many customers migrate from powerful reds to easier drinking whites. So decisions about what wines to feature during the summer have singular importance to operators. Take George Miliotes, director of beverage and hospitality for Darden’s eight-unit Seasons 52, which already serves 70 wines by the glass made from 23 grape varietals. This summer he’ll promote four whites, all brisk, crisp ...

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