Stella Parks, the head — and only — pastry chef at the tiny but much-adored Table 310 in Lexington, Ky., is essentially free to do as she pleases. Whether that means working with gluten-free flours or baking spontaneous birthday cakes for customers, the Culinary Institute of America graduate aims to keep things fresh and unpredictable. Since Food & Wine magazine named her one of the country’s top pastry chefs in 2012 — the first Kentucky chef to be ...

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