Chef-owner Justin Devillier uses sweet-and-sour satsuma oranges — the first citrus fruit to ripen in the fall in Louisiana — and octopus — one of the fastest-growing seafoods on menus — for this popular appetizer. First, he vacuum-packs octopus with salt, peppercorns, lemon and bay leaf and cooks it at 71 degrees centigrade for five hours. Then he grills the octopus and garnishes it with a vinaigrette made with satsuma oranges, rice vinegar, celery, pickled ...

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