Chef Robert Marzinsky says the key to good gnocchi is cooking the potato just right, so they don’t soak up too much flour. “Potatoes have a really funny window between being not cooked enough and being overcooked,” he said. He cooks Russet potatoes until they’re just past fork-tender and can be passed easily through a food mill. Once he passes them, he lets them dry on a towel at room temperature. Then he adds egg yolks, flour, butter and a little piave ...

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