At the recent opening in Los Angeles of ShopHouse Southeast Asian Kitchen, the new concept by Chipotle Mexican Grill Inc., I was struck by how profoundly limited-service food in this country has changed. Tim Wildin, Chipotle’s director of concept development, was giving members of the press a tour of the menu, allowing us to taste each component individually. As at Chipotle, the dishes at ShopHouse are made in the restaurant. The vegetables, like green beans with roasted-chili ...

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