All the buzz generated by the burgeoning better-burger segment has served to obscure the extraordinary growth of chicken, a reliable menu commodity that’s been waiting in the wings for its culinary close-up. It appears that its big moment has arrived, as operators of all types embrace a protein that is healthful, cost effective and highly versatile. Spicy chicken is hot. This is especially true in the South, where an incendiary flavor treatment that originated in Nashville, Tenn., ...

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