Chef-owner Matt McCallister celebrates beets in many forms in this $11 appetizer. McCallister buries whole beets in post oak ash and roasts them in the oven. “You get a smoky aesthetic, but almost a tannic flavor,” he said of the technique. Separately, he pressure cooks some beets with orange juice, coriander and wine — red wine for red beets, white wine for other colors — for 20 minutes. He slices other beets and cuts them with a round ring cutter and pickles ...

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