For a glimpse of where craft beer in American restaurants may be headed, scan the beer list of Alla Spina, the new Philadelphia dining spot that showcases distinctive, hard-to-find Italian craft beers and rustic Italian-style bar food. The month-old gastropub is surprising patrons with Italian brews that show complex nuances of myrrh, juniper berries, citrus, ginger and absinthe. The fourth restaurant in Philadelphia for chef-owner Marc Vetri and his partners, Alla Spina means “from ...

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