Umami, the so-called “fifth flavor,” is how our taste buds detect protein, that is, certain free-floating compounds associated with protein. One of those compounds, free glutamate, is found in abundance in foods such as mushrooms, oily fish, miso, seaweed and Parmesan cheese, as well as cooked meat. Chris Gould, the chef at this sashimi bar attached to Ken Oringer’s fine-dining restaurant Clio, uses those ingredients in this dish. He starts with chicken stock, which he ...

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