There are few things about which I can be considered conservative. From music to art to style to food and drink, I embrace with equal enthusiasm tradition and innovation, the classics and the iconoclasts.Then there’s Champagne.As an avowed fan of French bubbles, I have some pretty strict views on the stuff, beginning with how it should be served—spare me the fruit fly swimming pools known as Champagne saucers, please—and ending with the steadfast conviction that only sparkling wine made via ...

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