In February, Acqua Pazza, an upscale restaurant in midtown Manhattan featuring creative Italian food, will close for a makeover. It will reopen not as a more casual trattoria, nor as a Tuscan steakhouse, but as Anthos, named for the Greek word for blossom. “Symbolically, it’s a birth, and I’m hoping for it to be the beginning of a new way to look at Greek food,” says the chef, Michael Psilakis, a former T.G.I. Friday’s manager who, by reinterpreting the Greek food of his ...

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