Various audio-visual and tactile elements inform a dining experience, and designers like to push the envelope to create compelling restaurant atmospheres that sometimes overshadow the cuisine.But when it comes down to brass tacks or brass sconces or 17-foot-marble tables imported from Italy, the core of a restaurant is its food, and everything has to reflect that, designer Richard Bloch believes. At the restaurant Dovetail in New York, Bloch eschews fancy design elements and keeps ...

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