Montanans apparently like to put letters on their mountains. That’s what I’m told. The "M" in the picture is in the city of Missoula, but it stands for Montana — not the state or the university where I’m attending the joint annual meetings of the Agriculture Food and Human Values Society, the Association for the Study of Food and Society, and the Society for Anthropology of Food and Nutrition. There’s a big concrete "L" on the next mountain ...

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