Roger Berkowitz has never been known to shy away from controversy. In the past, the president and chief executive of 32-unit Legal Sea Foods, based in Boston, has, for example, irked transit workers by making fun of them in ads for his restaurants on the subways where they worked.
 In January, Berkowitz took on the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch by throwing a dinner serving food that the conservation organization instructed consumers to avoid.
 Served at the meal were fritters ...

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