LOS ANGELES Spago in Beverly Hills, Calif., diners may or may not notice a conspicuously placed sign beside the door with a bright blue letter “A.” —When walking into Wolfgang Puck’s iconic The grade indicates that Spago scored a 90 or higher on its most recent restaurant inspection, a distinction now enjoyed by an overwhelming majority of the nearly 38,000 restaurants inspected routinely by Los Angeles County’s health department. ...

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