Poor beans: the subject of derision as a poor-man’s food, the butt of countless jokes involving the human digestive system, the victim of so many ill-conceived recipes by sanctimonious vegetarians.But with a little finesse, beans can do more than add inexpensive heft to a dish, and despite their mixed reputation, most people like to eat them.In spring and early summer, as heirloom beans come into season, some chefs treat beans like any other seasonal specialty.“Our bean season in Italy lasts ...

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