As popular as Australian wines are in the United States, they still are in many ways a new frontier. Aussie wine producers continue to bring new surprises, and their work reveals new facets beyond the mainstream business of inexpensive Chardonnay and Shiraz.In Australia’s wild west—the faraway state of Western Australia, about five hours’ flight time from Sydney—the realm of cool-climate whites such as Riesling and Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blends and sleek reds including trim Shirazes and ...

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