When Ann Cashion talks about her namesake restaurant, she almost always refers to it as a “project.” It’s one of those tics of operational language that could easily prove insignificant, but the particularities of the “project” seep deeply into Cashion’s Eat Place, a homey neighborhood establishment in Washington, D.C. The same goes for “soul,” another word that comes up often without ever sounding hollow or contrived. As Cashion herself once said in a speech to a gathering at ...

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