Burning food to cinders is widely considered a mistake when cooking, but ash is being used as a flavoring these days by a number of cutting-edge chefs. At Aquavit in New York City, chef Marcus Jernmark uses hay ashes to add a smoky depth to some meat dishes. The ash comes from hay that he burns to smoke sweetbreads. Jernmark, who previously worked as the chef at the Swedish Consulate in New York, is one of the members of the New Nordic artistic school of chefs. René Redzepi of Noma in ...

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