As many chefs at high-end restaurants come off of two difficult years in which much of the food they served sought to soothe their stressed-out customers, they are turning to their own comfort food — or at least their comfort herb. Chervil, arguably the finest of the French fines herbes, and certainly the most rare in the United States, is adding an elegant-yet-retro finish to many fine-dining plates. “My cooks make fun of me for how much I use it,” said Andrew Zimmerman, ...

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