The beet greens were an hour out of the field, says Christopher Albrecht, executive chef of Eno Terra Restaurant in Kingston, N.J., discussing a “farm-to-table” dinner he hosted in a farmer’s field last August. A growing number of chefs concerned with serving the freshest possible produce also are cultivating diners’ palates by holding meals at the immediate source of many of their ingredients: a farm. Their motivation, they say, is to emphasize the importance of local, ...

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