Avant-garde presentation sets stage for dramatic dishes, resilient ringmaster
Of all the tongues in all the mouths of all the chefs in the world, the one belonging to Alinea’s Grant Achatz has to count among the most illustrious. Taste is by no means the only — or even the primary — sense that Achatz courts. But none of his storied theatricality and avant-garde verve would matter as much if not for the way his food works, simply, as food. All of this made Achatz’s sudden and startling bout with fate three years ago like the stuff of Greek ...
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