Mélisse chef Josiah Citrin admits that Los Angeles is “not a super fine-dining town.”
 Southern Californians tend toward casual, not formal dining. But that’s in part why Citrin created Mélisse as something “over the top” when he opened the restaurant in 1999.
 “There’s a need for this level of dining,” said Citrin, the restaurant’s chef-owner. “We make people feel like kings and queens. They want to have a place for a ...

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