For chef Sam Hayward, co-owner of Fore Street restaurant in Portland, Maine, serving local food contains an element of education. It’s about introducing people to Maine’s foodways and “the traditions and history of farming, fishing and foraging in this northernmost corner of the East Coast of the United States,” he says. That means showing diners there’s more to New England food than chowder, beans, lobster and blueberries.The education of Hayward himself goes back to his ...

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